From The Florida Times-Union
Special to the Times-Union
March 20, 1998

Taste of Thai might be tiny, but the ethnic fare is mighty
by Missy Ketchum

The variety of international restaurants located in this strip shopping center where Taste of Thai is nestled makes the spot on University Boulevard a veritable Epcot Center of cuisine.

Next door to Taste of Thai is Hala (Middle Eastern) and a few doors down is Koreana Garden (Korean and Japanese); the American franchise Firehouse Subs is directly across the parking lot.

Taste of Thai is the smallest of these eateries. The limited space and sparse decor at Taste of Thai make it seem more suited to a bagel shop than a place where one can find some of the best Thai food in town. There are only 11 vinyl-draped tables in this little restaurant where the wait staff provides the only clue that the menu features ethnic fare.

The menu offers an array of traditional Thai favorites as well as a few chef's specialities that blend the traditional with the new. Thai cuisine is one of the best for vegetarians, and Taste of Thai offers an impressive list of nearly 20 meatless appetizers and entrees. The menu explains each dish, and the staff makes clear that the kitchen will try to honor any special request for "not to hot" or even an "off the menu" dish.

Spring rolls are my litmus test for great Thai cuisine, and the ones at Taste of Thai are delicious. We tried the pork ($2.75) and the vegetarian versions ($2.75), both of which came out crispy and hot with a side of sweet and sour sauce. The chef rolls them by hand, packing them tightly with the vegetables, pork (or not) and noodles.

We also tried the Chicken Satay ($6.95), which was five skewers of marinated breast grilled with a light curry paste and served with peanut sauce and decoratively cut cucumbers. Although it was perfectly tender and evenly coated with the curry paste, the chicken tasted like a plain chicken breast. We were glad we ordered extra peanut sauce as any good boorish American should. (Non-native diners are often guilty of thinking of Thai cuisine as peanut sauce and Thai dishes and conduits for peanut sauce.) Taste of Thai serves an authentic peanut sauce made of chunky peanut butter, coconut milk, soy sauce and sugar, with a texture that resembles a vegetable puree.

Entree portions are large enough to share, and most come with a dome-shaped mold of steamed jasmine rice. The freshness of everything we ordered was a distinguishing factor. We tried a traditional favorite, Padt Thai ($8.95). This was a platter of rice noodles sauteed with eggs, scallions, mung bean sprouts, ground peanuts and a choice of poultry, meat, tofu or seafood. We tried it with shrimp and added a little peanut sauce. The sweet and spicy flavors worked well together, and the fresh sprouts and peanuts added a satisfying crunch that complimented the softness of the noodles and eggs.

We enjoyed the chef's specialty, called Pla Lad Prig (market price). This was a whole deep-fried fish with a brothy sauce of sauteed onions, red peppers and whole fresh basil leaves. The sauce's blend of broth, rice vinegar and sugar heightened the sweetness of the red peppers and basil. It was delicious with the light saltiness and crunchiness of the fish. We had to be careful of the bones in the fish, but a leftover carcass can be primally satisfying. The fish is served in a large gratin dish with a steamed jasmine rice alongside.

Taste of Thai serves five curry preparations, each with a different color and degree of spiciness, The Kaeng Karee (Yellow Curry) with chicken ($8.95) is served in a large bowl because it is more like a stew. In addition to chicken, all of the curries can be prepared with or without an array of seafood or meat. The curry was soupy and mild, offering the only spicy flavor to the big chunks of chicken, potato and onion. This mellow dish was comforting, if a little unexciting. Next time we'll try a curry with more authority.

Taste of Thai offers great hospitality to its guests. The owner is a native of Thailand and worked at several Asian restaurants in Jacksonville before opening this one. She welcomed us and visited our table to make sure we were satisfied. Taste of Thai doesn't make a practice of accepting reservations, but calling ahead can help if it's a busy night. Service is prompt and accurate, which is why Taste of Thai does plenty of takeout orders and a brisk lunch business. There are several lunch specials every day for $5.95 that come with a soup or salad, spring roll and rice.

Dinner for two with a couple of Singha Thai beers totals $40. The place is small enough that repeat customers may find themselves on a first-name basis with the staff, and which should further endear diners to this little restaurant with big taste.

Missy Ketchum is a freelance writer from Jacksonville.